Woman’s Headdress, called Perak

Ladakh, Northeast India
Turquoise, coral, carnelian, mother-of-pearl, leather and silver
Circa 1960
Lenght: 75cm, width: 50cm
Provenance: Belgian collection, the father of the actual owner acquired it in Asia in the early 90’ies

This woman's headdress known as a perak is from Ladakh in Northeast India.
The headdress consists of a central oblong panel in red leather decorated with many rows of large turquoise beads and carnelian. An old silver ga’u box with applied filigree, coral and turquoise has been centrally placed. It is flanked to both sides by a black half-moon lambswool earflap, to protect the ears against cold weather. Five strands of braided fibre strings are sewn at the flaps, to be tied into a knot behind the woman’s back.
 
An additional rectangular pendant set is decorated with rows of mother-of-pearl, turquoise beads and red coral strings.

The perak’s visible surface is covered with 128 turquoise stones; the biggest turquoise stone is placed at the front point, followed by the next best stones, where they are most striking. The perak is in a good condition, all the stones appear to be original, none are missing. The marks on the reverse show that the piece have been worn on the head.
 
Draped over the top of a woman’s head the headdress looks like a raised cobra (naga) ready to strike. In Hindu and Buddhist iconography the cobra with expanded hood represents protection of a deity image, and the perak by analogy offers protection to the wearer.
    
The perak is a status symbol for Ladakhi women, her wealth and position are shown by the number and quality of the stones, with turquoise as the dominant element; the value of the stones acts as a form of old-age security. When preserved intact the perak was traditionally passed from mother to eldest daughter on her marriage as a family heirloom. Older examples that passed through several generations might be covered with more stones. When a woman has no daughter her perak could be inherited by a close female relative, given away to a monastery or traded in the area.